• Molly Higgs

The Paradox of Thailand's Gender Politics

On my second day in the Phuket Sandbox, I find myself in the Bangla road toilets chatting to a Thai lady who responds in perfect English. After a few moments of De Ja Vu, I realise that I’ve seen her before: standing on the corner of this same building, surrounded by a posse of slathering middle-aged men.

While in many western countries the infamous Thai brides are the subject of banterous locker-room talk, here in the sex-tourism hotspot of Phuket, it soon becomes clear that this is everyday life for these women. Whether being objectified from afar, or groped in close range- these women are thinking not of how they are perceived, but of providing for their families.

Back in the Bangla bar toilet, she continues telling me about her life while dabbing me with perfume. With an unwavering smile, she explains that her children live in the northeast area of Thailand, hundreds of miles away. Most of the money she makes tending to the men on Bangla is sent to them, paying for their meals, school outfits, and other necessities.

In fact, many women hail from the poorer farming regions of Isaan to reap the financial benefits of Phuket’s sex tourism. During the Vietnam War, US military bases were established in Udon Thani and Khorat- fuelling a sex industry that has remained present in the area ever since. However, when the American soldiers moved on, the women of north-eastern Thailand set their sights on the tourist centres of Bangkok and Phuket.

It’s in central Isaan that I find myself living, teaching English, and experiencing the fascinating, sometimes polarising nature of Thailand’s gender politics.

Appearance is Everything: Women in the Workplace

While foreigners of every gender flock to Thailand's thriving TEFL scene, native Thai teachers are predominantly women. This is likely due to the long-standing perception of women as the nurturing sex: suited best to the roles of motherhood and caregiving.

However, what arose from traditional gender binaries has turned into a freeing way of life for many women in Thailand. Teaching allows women to carve their own identities outside of being wives and mothers, have financial agency, and influence the next generation.

As such, the role of “Kruu” is highly respected and shaped by gendered formalities. The most important of these? Dress to impress. For women in the social structure of the school, appearance is everything, and foreigners are expected to abide by these rules.

Traditional binaries of masculine vs feminine remain integral to the way we dress as female teachers in Thailand. Trousers are strictly forbidden, and for someone in a position of authority to wear them would be a serious Faux Pas. Instead, we wear knee-length pencil skirts or dresses woven from Thai silk. Each day, the teacher’s room is a kaleidoscopic array of colourful material, and women complimenting each other on their latest outfits. Frills are welcome, and stilettos are encouraged for those who are unafraid of face-planting in front of their students.

Though bound by tradition, my experience of gender binaries in the workplace has been tempered by the endless generosity of Thai people. In morning assembly, I noticed that the Thai teachers were wearing particularly flamboyant outfits: dressed head to toe in swathes of beautiful silk.

A few minutes later, one teacher asked what clothes size I was and returned the following week with armfuls of handmade clothes. After what seemed like hours of asking “How much?” and her swatting the notes away, I accepted each garment graciously and have been trying to make space in my wardrobe for the dresses ever since.

A Culture That Celebrates “Gender Bending”

With many cultural matters, Thai society seems caught in a tug of war between tradition and modernity, and its attitude towards gender politics is just as polarizing. In contrast to the strict binaries of masculine vs feminine in the workplace, this society is learning to be progressive in its acceptance of queerness. Perha